So, throughout the month of September, I took notice of some interesting stuff/observations/tips that never quite made it into my blog entries. As a result, I’ve decided that every month I will have a post where I simply describe interesting cultural/societal things in Spain, Catalunya, and Barcelona. Here we go!
University Life
“Joan, why don’t you have your handout with you?” “Helena, are you chewing gum?” “Manuel, did you even do the reading?” Yep, these are normal things to hear. Professors really have no qualms calling students out. These professors are here to teach, not to do hand holding; however, they are passionate about their field and are eager to have students participate and ask questions.
How to avoid getting called out? Don’t give them a reason. Show up to class attentive and prepared.
· Expectations
Professors have high expectations. Like I said before, there’s not a lot of hand-holding. You are expected to come to class having done your reading and any further research to fully understand the text. Most of the time there is a “required” reading list and a “supplementary” reading list; also most of the time, the “supplementary” list might as well be “required.” You are expected to do things on your own; a lot of the time, professors don’t spell out quite clearly what you should be doing to prepare yourself for midterms.
So, what should you do? Honestly, I’m still trying to figure it out myself. There is an ideal way to take notes, to do the readings, and to study and I’m still picking up on what I should be doing. I’ve decided I’m pretty much going to live in my professor’s office for the next few weeks once I have myself all caught up. In the meanwhile, I’m going to class (with print-outs of the reading, because it is expected—I caved a bought a printer), taking notes, and trying to keep up with the readings… sigh. Easier said than done.
When in doubt, ask.
·
Lack
of emphasis on grades
American
students care a lot about their
grades. In Spain, there is definitely less of an emphasis on grades. I don’t
know why or how, but that’s just how it is. So, don’t be a point whore. These
classes are harder because they are in a different language and that’s going to
reflect in your grade in all likelihood. Instead, just try to learn—that’s sort
of what the year is about.
· Taking notes
The Spaniards take notes like beasts. They will go through pages of legal sized printing paper in an hour and a half class. Sit next to someone who seems diligent about writing notes. When they write, you should be writing too. Also, it is quite helpful to sneak a peek when you missed a point or if you get lost during the lecture. J
Food and Dining
· Orange juice
Zumo de naranja… orange juice. It’s a hit or miss sort of thing. Usually it’s not too good from the grocery store unless it’s not from concentrate, but there is nothing like going to a café and getting a bocadilla and fresh OJ. Don’t be surprised if it comes with a pack of sugar. I don’t know why.
· Pay for bread on table
You know when you go to restaurants and they put out bread on the table? Stateside, I’m squealing with joy: “Yay! Free carbs!!!” Here, not so much. You touch your bread and you pay for it. So, unless you are starving and willing to pay the extra euro, wave over your waiter and tell them you don’t want the bread. Or, shove the bread clearly onto the other side of the table.
· Ofertas and judging cafés
When going out for coffee with friends, always look at the ofertas. These are combo deals that let you know what the prices of the café are like. Things like café con leche and a croissant, una bocadilla and zumo… these deals are usually written on a chalk board outside the café.
If you’re going to a café for lunch, check out the menú del día. This a meal (usually one or two plates), dessert, and a drink all for a set price, usually between 8 and 12 euros. When you’re in the mood to sit down and have a real Spanish lunch and thoroughly enjoy your siesta, this is the way to go.
· Coffee is damn good
Coffee here is universally good because they make it the right way. Yes, there is Starbucks here, but let’s face it: Starbucks makes shitty coffee. Do yourself a favor and go to a café. Any café. You will be irrevocably changed.
· Bars and prices
Bars are wonderful places, especially on nights when there are Barça games… but get there early so you have a seat! Also, if you are at a bar/restaurant and want to get a drink, get it from the bar. Oftentimes on menus, you will see that food/drinks are different prices depending if you get them from the bar or from a table. The bar is usually cheaper.
· Bread
Bread is always fresh. Which means it’s ten times better. Don’t be lame and buy sliced loaves of bread at the grocery store—instead, pick up a baguette or fresh round bread. You will never go back.
Also, it’s totally not uncommon to see a person walking down the street with five baguettes in a grocery bag. Yeah, they take their bread seriously.
· Waiters
It is not customary to tip in Spain. Tips are included in the waiter’s salary, so they are not going to brown-nose in hopes for a little extra dough. This means that if you want a waiter’s attention, you will have to vigorously flag them down, usually by waving a hand and saying, “Disculpe,” which means, “Excuse me.” Also, waiters will be outwardly angry if you come in at a meal time, take up a table, and only get drinks and tapas. So try not to.
People
· Rolling cigarettes
Most people here roll their own cigarettes. It’s really cool to watch.
· On getting sick
If you tell a Spanish friend, “Oh, I have a cough,” their next question is always, “Do you have the flu? Have you taken anything for it?” Your response is usually, “No and, um, no, it’s only a cough,” but they will have none of that. If you tell them that you just need some more sleep and a little vitamin C, they will laugh at you. However, if two weeks later you still don’t feel fabulous, suck it up and go to the pharmacy. Don’t worry: cough syrup is universally disgusting.
· Swearing
The Spanish like to swear, so it’s very easy to pick up on swearwords here—all you have to do is listen to normal conversations… which is easy, because the Spanish tend to yell. A bit like Italians, really, so I ought to be used to it with my big Italian family, but it’s a little scarier because you only understand 50 percent of the words with how fast they are speaking. Nonetheless, one catches on. Good stuff. Swearing is so wide spread, that it’s not even uncommon to hear a newscaster swear. Yep, welcome to Spain.
· PDA
PDA: Public Displays of Affection. In Spain, it is not uncommon to see couples continuously—and passionately—making out on a street corner. Or a restaurant. Or a bar. Or (my favorite) the metro. I explained to one of my friends that this is a big no-no stateside and that it makes people, including myself, quite uncomfortable.
“So what do you do?” he asked.
“Holding hands is fine. A quick kiss. But nothing too long,” I responded. He thought about it for a moment.
“How frigid!” he at last cried out. “Here in Spain we are a little more passionate.”
Passionate. Well, that’s one way to look at it, I suppose.
· Touchy feely
Fact: people here are a little more touchy-feely. This can go one of two ways. The first way is great: close friends are really affectionate. Cheek kisses all around, hugs, back massages… it’s nice. The other way? You’re in the club, getting your groove on, and guys are grabbing your hand, pulling on your arm to direct you, making awkward physical contact as they pass by… not fun.
However, this sort of comes with a culture. If a guy thinks you look good, he’ll let you know. My friend and I were walking down the street at night and every time we passed a group of guys, they would shout to get our attention: “¡Guapa! ¡Oye, rubia!” (Yes, apparently I’m considered “blonde” in Spain. Dislike.) No harm in shouting, but it’s really hard to continue a conversation when someone is shouting that you’re blonde. Just sayin’… however, it’s just something to get used to.
· In da club
Unless you’re in a salsa club (great fun, by the way), people dance a little more reservedly. Also, people dance face-to-face, which is not at all like in the States. So, don’t go grinding on other people or your friends unless you want strange looks.
Style/fashion
· Half shaved head
This is one of those things that I cannot give reason to and only explain. There is a trend with the girls here to put a deep side part in your hair and simply shave off the side of the part with less hair. It’s quite a badass look.
Among other interesting styles are the Mohawk, the mullet, dreadlocks, or even better, the mullet/dreadlock combination. Can you say súper sexi?
· Heels
Fear not thy heels, ladies! In Spain, there are more options on finding cute shoes with heels. No longer will you have to pick between stilettos and flats, because there is a happy medium. Same thing with boots. Plus, with all the walking you’ll be doing, you’ll go through shoes surprisingly quickly. Invest in a good pair.
· Makeup
Makeup seems to be kept fairly simple here. However, there is definitely a hopping punk culture here. (Think Avril Levine.) One thing I’ve noticed is that girls like to wear dramatic lipstick—a bright pink or red.
· Blackberry
Blackberries seem to be the phone of choice because like iPhones, they have that texting-via-internet doo-da called “Wassup.” Terrific name, I know. But, future exchange students, you will probably have the cheapest, shittiest phone possible. Embrace it.
· Jewelry
You can never have too many bracelets on your arm here. Seriously.
· Fashion as a social marker
Fashion is definitely a social marker here, but perhaps not as much as in Madrid. Brand names are very important and people like having that logo show. However, clothing is not as “loud” in Catalunya as it is in Madrid. Reasons for this phenomenon will be provided in “Catalan Culture/History: On money.”
Transportation
· Crossing streets
Cross when you see the little green man. Or if you see the red man, look one way and walk if you see no cars. Note: the second part does not apply to large streets. Also, the blinking green man to warn you that you don’t have enough time to walk is not shitting around. You have three seconds if you’re lucky.
· How to stand in the metro without dying
In the metro, the best way to stand is so that you are parallel to the tracks. Keeping your feet shoulder-width apart and slightly staggered should keep you fairly well balanced. Having a rail to hold onto is also nice.
If you are sitting on the metro and you see an elderly person, a pregnant woman, or kids get on, you should always offer your seat to them. It’s a nice thing to do and I see it all the time.
· Dealing with skirts
Skirts are lovely to wear when it’s 30+ degrees Celsius outside, but one must be wary in the metro. Moving trains + drafty tunnels = billowing skirt. Also be careful walking up and down stairs in the tunnels because the air can get up your skirt. Also, avoid the metro vents when walking on the street. It only took me about three weeks to learn.
· Fun with hills
Depending where you live, you may have the blissful joy of walking up and down hills to get anywhere every single day. Wear good shoes and stay positive: “My butt is going to look awesome!”
· Orienting yourself/context clues
If it weren’t for the high risers, it would be pretty easy to orient yourself in Barcelona. When giving directions, many Catalans will either tell you to go toward the mountains or go toward the beach. National monuments, like the Sagrada Familia or Montjüic, are also helpful.
For me, the hardest part about orienting myself is right when I get off the metro—here, I get all turned around. There are usually street maps of the blocks surrounding the metro near the exit, but they are not oriented properly. However, they do show building numbers so you can figure out if you are heading in the right way.
And as always, carry a map. I have three. No shame.
· Lanes
Car lanes are tiny and drivers don’t always manage to stay in them. However, a super cool thing is that the furthest right hand lane is designated for buses and taxis. Also, the streets in the district of L’Eixample are cut at a 45 degree angle, which is also perfect for taxis to pull aside.
Catalan Culture/History
· Flags and symbols
Flags and symbols are very important in Spanish and Catalan culture. For instance, the flag of Spain under Franco is absolutely illegal. Also, there are two Catalan flags: one official flag and one independista for those who want Catalunya to become independent from Spain. Because of this popular mentality, it is sort of rare to see a Spanish flag in Catalunya. 99 percent of the time, you will see the Catalan flag.
Another symbol is the national hymns. Like the Franco flag, the Franco hymn is illegal to play. However, our teacher did play a little for us, but only got about fifteen seconds into the song before he shuddered and stopped. Our teacher is young and was probably not even born during Franco’s time and it still brings out bad feelings in people. These things are to be taken quite seriously.
· On old people
Old people are great. On weekend afternoons they practically live at cafes and watch Barcelona yawn and bustle (depending on the time). They talk to you on buses and are always super nice if you help them out or lend your seat. However, these old people are deceptively badass.
With a higher quality of life, advances in medicine, and the lowering of the mortality rate of children, the average woman in Spain is expected to live until 84 and the average man to 77—a pretty big difference when compared to the early 1900s, when men were only expected to live to 36 with all the wars. Hence, Spain is sort of becoming a more “antiquated” city because there are more older people than younger people.
But, these people have lived through Franco’s regime, so they are tough cookies. Also, they are quite mobile, always walking around the streets. Don’t be surprised to see them in the middle of a protest, just as passionate as the 20-something-year-olds. Indeed, these old people are cool.
· On money
Catalunya has always been a fairly industrial area, which means lots of new money. It’s a battle between the old aristocracy and new bourgeoisie. While aristocrats are seen as idle money-flaunters, the bourgeoisie tended to view money more as a form of security rather than a bragging right. The latter mentality is typical of Catalunya and can be reflected in a number of ways, especially in how people dress. While brands are quite important, Catalans will not mind this as much and tend to dress a little more conservatively (without as many intricate details) than people in Madrid.
· On politics
Politics are complicated, so I’m only going to try to explain a few things. Republicans here (republicanos) are not conservative, like in the States—instead, they support the Republic of Spain. Also, you have centralistas and autonomistas. The former supports a central government in Madrid, while the latter is more in favor of have the different autónomas in Spain govern themselves (Catalunya is one of Spain’s 17 autónomas).
Politics are complicated and messy. There is a liberal and a conservative party in Spain, but I think more of the problems they have are between the autónomas and Madrid. Many autónomas, such as Catalunya, Pais Vaso, and Navarra, seek independence and dislike taking orders from the central government in Madrid, causing a huge rift. That’s why people here take Barça v. Madrid games super seriously—it’s not just about the game. It’s about national pride.
· On protesting
Protesting seems to be a national hobby. As foreign exchange students, we are to avoid it at all costs, but it’s interesting to watch at a distance. Police block off the streets and the protesters do their thing as everyone else simply continues on with their lives, not grumbling about the blocked street, noise, or anything.
Welp, that’s all I got for the month of September! I’ve been crazy busy lately, but I’ll try to get back to my usual posts. I’m still weeks behind. Oops.
Besos!!!!!
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